Each and every spring, bass angling fanatics yank out their bass tackle and start for the lake. Most are starting the season a little too early, but Continue reading “Spring Bass fishing Tactics”

Well folks now that the winter is near over and the ice is off most of the lakes, ponds, rivers and streams all we need to do know is wait for the crappie spawn to catch some big slab spring crappie Wrong! Spring crappie fishing right after ice out is the most amazing time of year to catch trophy slabs. The fishing pressure will be light because of the still very cold weather. If you can tolerate some very inclement weather you will experience some of the most amazing spring crappie fishing.  

After ice out it is time to go out and start your spring crappie fishing. The crappie are still in deep water but will start their move into holding areas close to their spawning beds. They will be hungry and will their feeding in earnest The water is extremely cold, so you will have to use a very slow bait presentation. The trick is being able to locate the fish, there are some fundamentals you need to be aware of to find the big slab pre-spawn spring crappie. Oh you won?t have to be out on the lake at first light either. It has been my experience , afternoon is better this time of year because there is some sun warming and the crappie feed on the moving bait fish more in the afternoon.

Start your fishing at the last ice fishing location. If you don?t ice fish contact some ice fisherman and find out their last fishing locations. The fish will be holding at these locations right after ice out. If your lake is shallow, head to the deeper boat channels around your lake, the fish will be locate here. In deeper lakes head to narrowing creaks and channels feeding off the lake the spring crappie will be located there. I rivers head for channels that feed off the main river.  

When fishing In cold water I prefer ultra light equipment. When your fishing for spring crappie the bite will most likely be very light. You need to be able to feel the bite to catch fish Use 2lb test and an open face reel and a graphite rod, with a good tip. If you are breaking line and snagging a lot move to 4lb fluorocarbon.. I recommend you use 1/32oz or 1/16oz jig heads that have eyes painted on them. The color of the jig head can very, but my preference is chartreuse or pink. with split tail plastic tubes. with some glitter color. My preference is to use clear color tubes with some glitter color in them for clear water. In murky water use white or yellow. If the water is real muddy use chartreuse.

If you use these tips you will be successful. When you catch a giant slab crappie in early spring there is no better feeling. Well good luck with your spring crappie fishing.

Don’t for get to build up the fish habitat for your crappie to enjoy. Shallow habitat for fry is the first step in growing big slab crappie. Artificial fish attractors and fish habitat grow algae fast and protect young fry for larger predators.   Fishiding.com

Structure Fishing 202
By Paul Crawford
Advanced Structures

In our last article, we looked at the basics of structures and what to look for in a structure. This month, let’s look at some of the more unusual structures that have proven to outperform the normal ledges and holes. These are candidates to be honey holes, that can produce giant stringers on a consistant basis.

An old structure fishing adage, which is all too true, is: “If you are on a good structure and you’re not catching fish, it only means there’s something better near by.” In most cases this will be a difference in the cover. An isolated hydrilla ball on a ledge may draw fish from several hundred yards in all directions. But there is still the odd case, where the cover and depth remain fairly constant, and a “secondary structure” is the bass magnet. These honey holes have the huge advantage of not changing from year to year. Add good cover to a secondary structure and it’s almost a sure fire winner. For this reason, these more hidden structures are well worth the time, trouble, and gas to find. Once you’ve found one, remember it! It can produce fish year after year for you.

The Funnel

Funnels are some of the absolute best structures to be found when fish are moving between open water and shallow flats to feed or spawn. They are the main entrance to a flat and will not only hold a number of fish close, but will replenish themselves by the hour. Funnels are at their best during Spring and Fall, and expecially good for about an hour before and after both dawn and dusk.

A Funnel is an oversize cut in a flat’s ledge with gentle slopes on both points and a gentle slope up onto the flat. The most common example of a Funnel is a creek mouth in a resevior where the channel has filled in over time. Most Funnels can be found fairly close to shore and leads into only a few feet of water. Since this is a shallow water structure, cover is common, and since they are often old creek mouths, it’s not unusual to have a break in the surrounding cover right at the edge of the structure. On occassion, you can even find the reverse. I’ve seen Funnels where the surrounding flat is fairly bare due to a hard bottom, but the old silt deposits give a great base for a weed bed.

Don’t confuse a Funnel with a simple creek mouth. With a creek mouth, the creek bed running across the flat may be the structure the fish relate to. At the very least, a creek bed makes moving past the creek mouth an attractive option, so you don’t see too many fish ganged up at a specific point. But gently fill in the creek bed, and the mouth becomes a Funnel and is the only game in town.

In natural lakes, flooded creeks are merely a rumor. But you can still find Funnels in surprising numbers. Look for the intersection of a ledge and a hole. If the intersection is somewhere in the middle of the ledge and somewhere on the smaller side of the hole, you’ve got a Funnel. Better yet is the case of a hole or depression which happens to open out to the main lake body. In the younger natural lakes, these spots are a regular feature and is why it’s now easy to find boats out in open water.

Funnel size is a matter of choice. Some people like large Funnels with a wide gap between large rounded points. For me, that’s more of a case of a twin point with a round ledge in between. My personal preference is something around 100 feet across at most. This gives me a distinct, well defined area to fish that I can cover in about 3 casting lengths. When I’m fishing these secondary structures, I’m looking for a spot, not an area.

The Saddle

A saddle is nothing more that a small ridge that runs between two holes. If you find a hole close to another, or a hole in a flat just off the main lake body, then you’ve got a Saddle. This is another case where you’re setting in the middle of a major underwater highway. Fish moving from one hole to the other, or from one side of either hole to the other, will most likely use the saddle to get there. A difference between a Saddle and a Funnel is with the Saddle, fish only rarely live there. This is a spot when fish are on the move. It’s one of my favorite spots on an approaching front when fish are moving around either feeding up or getting ready for the cold weather. Saddles also are a convenient place for fish to chase a school of bait, so it’s a great place to find schooling fish in the Spring and Fall.

Use the same rules as any other structure when deciding if a spot is a Saddle or simply the area between two holes. If it’s more than say 100 or 150 feet across, it’s not really a good Saddle. But also understand it needs to have a definate top or flat, so it can be too narrow as well. A narrow ridge that bisects a hole is a good spot, but not as good as a true Saddle.

Because you’re kind of setting in the middle of the highway, not at a rest stop, Saddles must be fished carefully. When fish are moving, Saddles are great. When the fish get where their going, Saddles can burn you in a heart beat. Use your depth finder carefully when approaching a Saddle. If you don’t see some marking that can be interpreted as moving fish, don’t stay on a Saddle too long. My general rule of thumb is if I can catch at least 1 legal fish within 15 minutes, then I may wait them out for an hour or so. But at 16 minutes after I pull up without a legal bite, I’m a memory.

Secondary Points

One of the better known major structures are points. But often, a point is not a pure classical cone extending out into the lake. Sometimes, you can find a protrusion off one side of the point or very near it’s base. These smaller structures are secondary points, or a point on a point. There are several wonderful features of secondary points. It will share all of the features of the main point but will give you another location surrounded with deep water on three sides, plus the two inside curves where the base of the secondary joints the primary point. This corner,where the two points meet, is most of the time the honey hole.

This is one of the few times where you can’t get too small. A secondary point that extends even a few feet out from the side of a main point can consentrate every fish in the area. Not all of the points extend out at right angles, some of the best go out at an acute angle. The inside corner of an acute angle point acts almost exactly like the Funnel we discussed earlier. An don’t be fooled by a secondary point that tops out at a different depth than the main point. A secondary point may extend out half way down the side slope of the primary point and still be a great place if you’re a fish.

Secondary points tend to be the way-point on the underwater highway. Fish that may roam over the rest of point to feed will return to the secondary point to rest and digest. In other words, this is where they live. Since fish will be moving in and out of the secondary point, you need to be as well. Mark the location of the secondary point and make a few casts to the three key areas: the tip and both corners where the points join. If you catch a fish, keep at it. If you don’t catch a fish, or if you catch one and then nothing, move off the point for a few minutes. After you fish the top and sides of the main point as usual, come back to the secondary point for another pass. Oddly enough, you will often find a secondary point won’t really start producing until the fish stop biting everywhere else and move into rest.

One other thing to keep in mind when fishing anywhere you think the fish normally live is to downsize your bait. When fishing structure that congregates fish, they will most of the time be neutral at best, and negative as a rule. If a fish returns home after feeding, he’s not likely to want to chase a big crankbait or fill up even more with a 10″ worm. I call it the “desert principle.” If my wife has just fed me a 16 oz steak, I’m likely to refuse the offer of another one. But give a few minutes after my steak, and I might find room for a brownie. When you fish where they live, go small and slow.

Corners

One of the easiest structures to find and one of the lightest fished is a corner. Of course, corners come in two flavors, inside and outside. Both flavors are formed by the junction of two other structures, usually just your plain vanilla ledges. Although it would seem that an inside or out side corner would be about the same, they have to be approached from virtually opposite directions. But they do share one fact, either can hold a ton of fish under the right conditions.

The inside corner is the most common and exists, if nowhere else, someplace on just about every large hole. We’re looking for something that approaches a right angle, not just a smoothed out bowl side. The abrupt change in direction is what consentrates fish. But the odd fact is the fish are only rarely right in the corner. The normal case is where the fish live just off to one side, generally along the lower edge. The visualize why this is true, look at how a fish can use a corner. If you’re a fish, and hang around just off a corner, chances are fairly good if you wait long enough, another fish will chase something good to eat along the opposite ledge right into where you are waiting. This is known as free food, a huge plus if you’re a fish. Now, if you would take the trouble to chase some bait along your side of the ledge, and you and the other fish both get to the corner about the same time, then you both get free food, even better. Turns out, this is pretty much what you find when fishing inside corners. There may always be the odd fish hanging out just off one side or the other, and it’s one of the better spots on the lake to find a school of fish during Spring and Fall. Fish don’t seem to live on inside corners unless there is something else about it which will hold them there, (brushpiles, hydrilla balls, etc.) It is a place fish like to visit and hunt even when not schooling, so inside corners do replinish themselves regularly. They tend to be one of those good places to know even during the off seasons. Fish around an inside corner are normally aggressive and actively feeding, so you can cover the water with a fast bait and still get most of what’s there. Crankbaits and Spinner Baits pulled parallel to one of the ledges work well. I prefer to work a corner from the shallow sides first, and move to deeper water only after covering both ledges for about 50′ down either side. Try to cast at an angle along the face of the ledges even after you’ve moved deep. Jigs and plastic worms work well when emerging from cover on the top of a ledge and working down at an angle away from the actual corner.

The outside corner is just about the same thing, only completely different. Once again you have two ledges that meet, but it’s now closer to a point. You would still like a corner that’s about a right angle, and a fairly quick drop on the slope would help. But this time, a drop of about 5 feet to a deeper flat would be ideal. There will be a few fish hanging around just off the corner at the bottom of the ledge, and the corner itself is still not all that great. The bigger fish, however, will not be beside the structure at all, but will instead be just off the structure in open water. Let’s look at an outside corner from a big fish view point. You’re big enough to not need the shelter of the ledge, and drawing back from the corner, looking down one side of the ledge, gives you the best view of the entire structure. The smaller fish will chase the bait along each ledge until the bait runs off the end, at the corner, and all you have to do is wait for it to happen, free food. Big fish are already notoriously lazy, and such an easy hunting spot will do nothing for exciting one either. Expect the smaller fish around the corner itself to be fairly aggressive, but the bigger fish will be neutral. To get the most out of one of these spots, start with the boat out in deep water where you cast will just reach the corner, then work the bait slowly over the deep flat. How far to work it will depend on depth and water clarity, but in clear water, out as far as 50′ may still be productive. After working your way around the corner on the outside, move parallel to the ledge and work the bait on a slant from the top of the ledge away from the corner. The outside corner seems to be at it’s best during the summer and winter, when fish relate to deeper structure. The only difference between the seasons is the grade of the slope, where you’d like a steep grade on at least one side in cold water..

Humps, Clumps, and Islands

Humps or underwater islands have long been sought as a prime structure during the summer season. Even humps only a few feet across can harbor literally hundreds of bass over and around the slopes. But not all humps are created equal, pick your spot carefully. You’re looking for a hump that is high enough to either have cover only on the top flat, or at least have a distinct change in the type of cover close to the top. Small to moderate size humps work better than large humps. And you’d like your hump to be surrounded by a fairly plain flat in deep water, but still have some other type of structure within a couple of hundred feet, so we’re not too isolated.

In natural lakes, Humps are another one of those places fish live. Humps are at their best in the middle of the day or night, when not every fish is out hunting. Bass will suspend around the hump as well as burying up in the cover, so a wide variety of lures will work, if you keep them small and subtle. Work all portions of the hump, but pay particular attention to the upwind and downwind sides. A wind current can turn a good hump into a honey hole of legendary proportions.

In reservoirs, current can be the key. Bass will still live around a hump, but may wait until a current is passing the hump to feed. In these cases, presenting the bait drifting with the current can load the boat in a heart beat. A few fish will position themselves in front of the hump, particularly if there is a steep bank on the leading edge. Most of the fish will snuggle down behind the hump and see what drifts by. This is the classic case of free food, and one of the easier lives you can lead if you’re a bass. If smallmouths are in the lake, this pattern can work 10 months out of the year, taking a break only during the spawn.

Even if you can’t find a true hump, this is one case where cover can comprise structure. A dense, isolated weed bed can make a very good imitation of a hump if nothing else is available. Sometimes you can find a flooded mound of timber stumps that make another good hump for all intents and purposes. Man made objects on the lake bottom, such as old sheds, tractors, or cars can be fished just like a hump if in the right position. I once dove down to find one of my favorite humps was a ’47 Ford Pickup in 30′ of water.

As with most structures, you can have too much of a good thing. Use our usual guidelines of a couple of hundred feet to distinquish between a hump and an island. Underwater islands are good, just not isolated. Underwater islands are best approached as a single round ledge and more or less ignore the center of the island unless a cover change or some other feature draws you there. There are usually several secondary structures surronding an island such as points or cuts, but pay a bit of additional attention to wind or power currents. The up current and down current sides of an island are normally more productive than the sides unless heavy cover breaks up the current as it flows past.

Fishing structure is more than a passing fad. Structure fishing, particularly in deep water, is a skill that will become required as more pressure is applied to the lakes and fish in future years. It’s not a difficult undertaking, it simply requires a bit of thought and a willingness to learn new things. Once you give it a try, I think the success will keep you off shore most of the year. So, see you in the middle!

Paul Crawford

POND BOSS Magazine is the world’s leading resource for fish, pond and fisheries management information including discussions on muddy water, raising trophy fish, fish feeding, building a pond, algae control and more. Check us out at www.pondboss.com or contact Bob Lusk, the Pond Boss himself, at 903-564-5372. His books, Basic Pond Management, Raising Trophy Bass and Perfect Pond, Want One, may be purchased by calling 800-687-6075 or ordering online at www.pondboss.com

Structure Fishing 101
By Paul Crawford
If there has been any real revolution in fishing over the last 20 years, it’s been “structure fishing”. Bass fishing as a sport, depended on shallow water “bank beating” since it’s inception. Over the last 20 years, it has become fashionable to wander off shore in search of more and bigger fish. Much has been written and discussed, but there still seems to be some confusion over structure fishing, even among the pros, and the majority of the fishermen have just become off shore fishermen, not structure fishermen. Let’s look at what we mean by structure fishing, and some of the tricks of the trade.
The definition of structure is a change in bottom contour, (I.e. depth), which results in an irregular feature on the bottom of the lake. Now just about any quick change in depth results in some type of structure, a hump, point, ledge, or something. The biggest misunderstanding seems to be the definition of “quick”. Quick is a relative term. In a traditional reservoir, this could be anything from a vertical drop to a gentle slope dropping 5 feet over a 30 yard distance. In a natural Florida lake, where it may normally take 1/4 mile to change depth by 1 foot, it may be a 6″ deep channel running through a 5 foot deep flat, or a two foot drop over 30 yards. Where ever you find it, structure is another edge in the underwater world, and we all agree that fish just love edges.

Let’s spend just a minute talking about what structure isn’t. Structure isn’t a weed bed on a flat, or an isolated stump, or a brush pile. All of these things are “cover”. A weed bed may constitute a different type of edge, both of the weeds and of the bottom composition, but not structure. Wood, whether natural or man made, is just some place to hide. Likewise, a feeding flat is a place, not a structure. We all have seen times when fish are on the flats and relating to cover. Even during those times, there will still be some fish around the surrounding structure. Even on days when the fish are straying away from structure, they generally won’t go that far if they don’t have to. Learn to recognize structure and it can narrow your search for fish dramatically.

Now that we can agree on what is structure and what is cover, we can also agree there are times when one or the other seems most important. Deep structure without cover can and does normally hold a few fish, but generally not a great concentration, at least of bass, (catfish and crappie are another story). And we blow by miles of shoreline or shallow water cover every trip that doesn’t have a concentration of bass. But put the two together, and you generally will find the fish stacked at least some of the time. The trick then is to know the other variables and be there at the right time. And every once in a great while we can find that honey hole with both structure and cover that have fish all the time, at least until we fish it out and have to find another one.

Types of Structure

We can define structure types by the relationship to the surrounding depths. The basic component of structure is the ledge. A ledge is simply a distinct change in depth. In a southern reservoir, this might be a drop of 5 feet over a twenty foot slope. In Florida, it is most times a drop of 6 inches to 1 foot over the same twenty foot slope. A ledge, by our definition, is a fairly straight line of depth change. Start putting some noticeable curves along the lip of a ledge, and you get other structure. A point is a protrusion of shallower water along a ledge. Surrounded by deeper water on three sides, it is the most recognizable and often the most productive type of structure. The opposite of a ledge is a cut. A cut is an indention in the line of a ledge with deeper water surrounded by shallow water on 3 sides. A hump is nothing more than a ledge that wraps around on itself, or an underwater island of sorts. A hump has deeper water on all sides. The opposite of a hump is simply a hole, literally deep water with shallow water on all sides. There are several other types we can talk about, but these are the basic types.

We now have our basic definitions, but we need to put some size restrictions on them, else everything is some type of structure. For instance, the main lake body could be seen as a hole, or simply a round set of ledges. We need to decide which one because we’d like to fish the structure differently depending on which type of structure we call it. As a reasonable guide, let’s look for just a second on how fish use structure. Structure, what ever it’s form, is a type of underwater transportation system. Fish generally follow a narrow depth getting from one place to another. The advantage of using structure edges is the deeper water provides an immediate escape route if you happen onto something much bigger than you. Now just like any road, fish rarely live right in the center lane. More likely, they will be just off one side or the other, which is were the cover part comes in. In any event, for our purposes, the extent or limit of a useful definition for a structure is the depth change itself and the reasonable area adjacent to the drop where fish will wander off to feed. In the case of our hole, a fish might reasonably wander out, say 100 feet into the hole without loosing the advantage of the edge for chasing shad. So, if we assume both sides of hole are good for 100 feet, then anything that is over 200 feet wide, at it’s narrowest part, isn’t a hole, just two separate ledges. Similarly, if a hole is too small to make use of each side, you have a ditch or a depression, not a hole. Each of these other cases may be useful, but for our discussion, they aren’t holes. Apply all of the same comments to the other structures: points, humps, cuts, etc.

Cover and Structures

Even with our size restrictions, we still have a tremendous area to work. But we can narrow the odds by putting one additional restriction on our prime structure. We already said we’d like structure with cover, but let’s now say we want the cover to end along the edge of our structure. A point with a grass bed is good. But if the grass bed happens to end right at the edge of the point, then the point is great!

Weed beds in particular are excellent types of cover to either change types, or stop all together right at the lip of the structure. A ledge may have heavy grass in say 10 feet on the top edge, while have either a different type of grass or, even better, no grass at all at the bottom edge. If you work the outside of the weed bed, you actually are working three edges at the same time, the vertical edge of the grass, the edge of the weed bed, and the depth change of the structure. Add a small point or cut in the straight ledge, and you have 4 or 5 edges. This is the kind of high percentage spot worth spending hours to find.

Standing wood is another case of cover at a structure. When you are fishing an old road bed or creek channel and the wood suddenly stops at a particular depth, you get all the advantages of the structure and the cover. I have found it necessary to be careful with defining wood on a ledge. Where you have creeks or roads, you a likely to also have hills or mounds. In this case you need to find a structure on a structure. Just because to the bed runs at a consistent depth, the top edge will, more often than not, rise and fall over mounds or small hills. A gentle slope up an underwater hill may concentrate the fish at a single tree because the depth is 6 inches different than the surrounding trees. If you don’t know what depth, it can be frustrating. On the other hand, a slight mount in on one side of a bed can act as a magnet for every fish in the area not actively hunting. Find an area with several of these mounds and you’ve got your honey hole. Depending on the local botany before it was flooded, you may be able to spot these mounds by looking for a specific type of tree which grew only on a mound or down in a cut. A perfect example is willow trees that would tend to have grown lower and closer to the water level of an old creek than say the surrounding oak trees. Cypress trees are another sure tip off of a change in structure level. You’ll read many times about a tournament won fishing a specific type of tree. More than likely, it wasn’t the wood type that made the difference, it was depth that type of tree was growing in before the lake was built. For more habitat ideas look at fishiding.com. the industry leader in artificial fish habitat and fish attractors.

Water Temperature and Structure

We’ve now established looking for a structure with cover, it’s time to chose among all structures with cover that ends at the structure edge. This will depend on several variables, water clarity, weather, season, stratification, temperature, etc. We could try to consider everything, but for starters, there is an easier way. Most of the changes can be interpreted as water temperature. Like any other generalization, it doesn’t work all of the time, but for 80 – 90% of the cases, it works just fine.

The general rule of thumb: “The Colder the Water, The Steeper the Drop.” Pretty simple, and it works. During winter and early spring, look for the fish to relate to a steep drop into deep water. This might be from 5′ or from 20′ into a deep hole, but the fast drop is the key. The fish will move during warmer periods to the upper shelf to feed and may suspend over the hole during those blue bird cold fronts. During summer and well into fall, look for a gentle slope into deeper water. The fish may range a couple of hundred yards from the structure but at least some will be on slope for most of the year. The only tough part about this is they may actually move deeper to feed and return to the slope to rest. But again, for the most part they will move into the cover for feeding while the bait is on the bottom.

Everything else being equal, we still don’t know at what depth we should look for our structure. In the Florida Chain Lakes, with different water clarity in different lakes, you can still find structure, with cover, the correct type of slope, and the correct contour in just about any depth. The tie breaker is again water temperature, just not surface temperature anymore. The most productive structure, all things being equal, will be where the structure tops out at the same depth as the thermocline. A thermocline, for those not normally worrying about those things, is a physical layer between two different temperatures of water. This normally exists when the lake is “stratified”, or during the summer when there is little movement between the upper and lower water layers. In this case, the cooler water will remain below the warmer upper layers. In the fall, as the upper water cools, it will normally fall within the water column, causing a lake to “turn over”, normally tough days to be fishing. Anyway, a structure near the thermocline with appropriate cover, can be a gold mine for fishing.

There are several ways to find a thermocline if one exists. The most obvious, and the most trouble, is to lower a temperature probe and look for a dramatic, (3 – 6 degrees), change in temperature. An easier way is to use your depth finder. A thermocline will reflect sound waves if the temperature change is great enough. Move to deep water and place your unit in manual mode. Increase the gain, (sensitivity), until you see a solid or broken line in the middle of the water column. If your depth finder has the little fish symbols on it, this may take the form of a line of fish around a particular depth. As you move the boat, this line may move slightly up or down, (a foot or so), but should remain pretty close for a given area. Find structure at that depth, and you should find fish. By the way, during the dog days of summer, you may find 2 or 3 thermoclines at the same time. Generally, the fish won’t be below the lower one, (commonly about 25′ in Florida). If you have 3 or more thermoclines, (more common on reservoirs where water 50′ plus is the rule), fish the middle one.

Fishing Structure

The absolute most important thing for fishing structure is your depth finder. A depth finder which can mark in 1/10′ or in inches is ideal for this application. Also, you’ll find it more comfortable if your depth finder is mounted on the bow with the transducer attached to the foot of the trolling motor. If you have only one depth finder, mounted on your console, then keep in mind the depth being shown is for the stern of the boat, not directly under you and your trolling motor. Get to be best friends with your depth finder, for structure fishing, it’s the most important piece of gear you’ve got.

Most of the time, you’ll find the majority of the fish on the top lip of the structure. The rest of the time, you’ll find the fish suspended just past the lower edge at approximately the same depth as the upper edge. Boat position is the key to effectively fishing the structure. Run up and down your structure a time or two and get to know the rate of the slope and where it bottoms out at. Position the boat so at a full cast length, your lure is about 10 over the top edge while holding the boat in deeper water. Keep the boat at the same depth as you follow the contours of the structure. If you find a narrow cut, back off and fish the bottom of the cut as well as moving in and fishing the surrounding lip. If you move over a point, make sure to go back and fish the normal edge line across the top of the point as well as following the point out into deeper water.

While you’re fishing the top of the ledge, don’t forget the deeper side of the boat. Every 6 or 8 casts, turn around and heave one out into open water. Make sure you monitor your bait on the drop, that’s were the bite will be for suspended fish. Pay particular attention to suspended fish around the ends of points and at the corner of flats. More to see in the fishiding news page

After you’ve finished a run on a structure’s top edge, if it still looks promising, make another pass fishing the bottom edge. Position the boat as close as you can to the top edge, (where you’ve just fished), and use your bait to “feel” you way along the bottom edge. If the cover stops on the top edge, many times a different scattered grass, limbs, or simply trash will pile up on the bottom edge. If you can’t feel anything, and when all else fails, you can count down your lure and get a pretty consistent feel for the depth you’re fishing. This is also the pass you’d like to fish straight across points and cuts looking for fish suspended in the middle. In general, this deep water pass will also be your best bet of sticking that kicker you’re looking for.

If you think there are some suspended fish in the area, try a long Carolina rig. Instead of simply pulling the bait along the bottom, pop the bait up in the water. As the sinker drops, the bait will actually whip upwards and you can effectively cover 6 or 8 feet off the bottom. In these situations, expect a very light bite and give the bait plenty of time to float back to the bottom before the next jerk. It won’t be unusual to not feel anything and simply have a fish on when you raise your rod. You can increase your hook up ratio by gently raising the rod tip and feeling for pressure before jerking the bait off the bottom. This is a prime example of the wisdom of the adage, ” The Jerk’s Free”.

There are a hundred other ways to fish various structures, and there are many more variations of the structures themselves. We’ll look in future articles at the more specific structures and techniques, but this pretty much covers the basics. Give structure fishing a try and I think you’ll like the results. Like most other techniques, it more a matter of confidence than anything. Given the right situation, structure fishing can open up a whole new world of schools of fish and big bites! See you off shore.

POND BOSS Magazine is the world’s leading resource for fish, pond and fisheries management information including discussions on muddy water, raising trophy fish, fish feeding, building a pond, algae control and more. Check us out at www.pondboss.com or contact Bob Lusk, the Pond Boss himself, at 903-564-5372. His books, Basic Pond Management, Raising Trophy Bass and Perfect Pond, Want One, may be purchased by calling 800-687-6075 or ordering online at www.pondboss.com

CATCH AND RELEASE OR SELECTIVE HARVEST? – BY DR. RICHARD O ANDERSON
Thursday, January 27, 2011 at 5:33pm
Dr. Richard Anderson is a legendary fisheries biologist who helped develop relative weight tables of fish that today’s biologist use religiously. He resides near Houston, Texas.

Grandpa told me a long time ago. “If they’re big enough to bite, they’re big enough to keep.” I’ll always remember his philosophies. He grew up in an era where fish were for food more than fun.

I’ll also never forget the time my wife caught two bass on the same plug, undernourished fish chasing anything that hit the surface of the pond. Such fishing memories are priceless.

The philosophy and approaches to management of fish populations in ponds have changed a great deal since the good ole days. We have a much better understanding of fish population structure and dynamics because of research on fishing ponds in the Midwest.

Should I keep this fish or put it back? For some people, largemouth bass have become a sacred cow and the answer is obvious. Catch and release has been a benefit to the quality of fish and fishing in many larger and public lakes.

But, this is not so in most private lakes and ponds. In lightly fished lakes and fishing ponds there is often a surplus of eight to twelve inch bass.

It helps to make an educated decision about which fish to keep or release if you know the fish population structure: e.g. length-frequency distribution of bass and panfish. The index of size distribution is called “proportional size distribution” or simply “PSD.”

Specific lengths of fish define “stock,” “quality” and “preferred” sizes. For largemouth bass these total lengths are eight, twelve and fifteen inches: for bluegill these lengths are three, six and eight inches. The index is determined as a whole number as the proportion of fish longer than quality size in stock. If ten largemouth bass longer than eight inches are caught and two of those are longer than twelve inches the PSD is 20: if no fish are caught longer than 15.0 inches the PSD-P is 0. Angling is an excellent way to estimate population PSD of bass.

Tracking PSD is an excellent way to keep a running tabulation on the progress (or lack of) of your fish populations. PSD is a useful tool for a lake or pond manager to make decisions when (and which) fish to harvest.

However, size of bluegill caught by angling does not reflect fish population PSD because few or no fish as small as three inches are caught. People just don’t fish for tiny bluegill. When six to eight out of ten bluegill caught are quality sizes the population PSD is probably between 20 and 60. Consider this a well-balanced population of those key panfish. When few or no bluegill longer than six inches are caught, the PSD is likely less than ten; fish are probably stunted with slow growth and high natural mortality. Only the smallest of age-4 survive to age-5.

The number 3.0 to 5.9 inches long can be in the thousands per acre. In several Midwest fishing ponds with a bluegill PSD less than 10, total weight of bluegill was three hundred or more pounds per acre i.e. carrying capacity for bluegill. With an increasing PSD there was a decline in bluegill standing crop such that when PSD was about 60 bluegill biomass was about 150 pounds per acre or 50% of carrying capacity.

With lower standing crop there is little competition for food in the fishing pond and individuals grow faster, live longer and some reach preferred size. Adequate predation by bass of quality size can reduce numbers of stock and quality size of the fishery down to hundreds per acre and a PSD of 60.

When the PSD of largemouth bass is less than 10 they may also be stunted and few survive to age 5. Their condition or index of well being called “relative weight” (Wr) is probably less than 90. This common fish population structure can result from a twelve-inch minimum size limit or a preference to keep bass of quality size. The PSD of such fish populations can be increased with selective harvest of bass less than twelve inches while releasing all bass of quality size. This process is called, “selective harvest.” Maintain that selective harvest until the proportion of fish eight to twelve inches long is equal to those twelve to fifteen inches long. With these proportions the Wr of both fish size groups should be about 100, or the optimum value for growth efficiency: i.e. about three pounds of gain for each pound of fish consumed. When competition for food is keen and Wr is low, fish may lose weight or it may take five to ten pounds of prey for a bass to gain one pound. When there is a surplus of prey and Wr is well over I(X), growth efficiency is lower because excess protein is converted to fat.

All pond owners should spend some time keeping track of numbers and sizes caught by angling in their fishing ponds. Set up a spreadsheet in your computer and track each year’s catch records by plotting bluegill PSD on the vertical axis and bass PSD on the horizontal axis. Both scales should be 0 to 100. Estimate bluegill PSD by subtracting 20 from angling PSD unless numbers are near O or 100. For the records just keep track of the numbers of bluegill shorter and longer than six inches total length. For example-if three bluegill less than six inches are caught from your fishing pond and seven longer than six are landed the angling PSD is 70 (7 divided by 10 x 100) and the estimated population PSD is 50. All fishing ponds with bluegill and largemouth bass will be plotted somewhere on this graph.

Decide your pond management objectives. If you prefer larger bluegill, protect more bass and be satisfied with a PSD less than 30. If you prefer to catch larger bass harvest those less than 15 inches long and catch and release those of preferred size.

When the PSD’s of bluegill and bass in your pond is around 60, you have reached the balance of nature, the way these fish populations have evolved. About 40% of bass will be 8.0 to 11.9 inches long, 40% 12.0 to 14.9 inches long and 20% longer than 15 inches. Your fish population will be near carrying capacity for bass and panfish populations will be near 50% of their carrying capacity. In a typical Midwest fishing pond this could be 150 pounds of bluegill and 40 to 50 pounds of bass. This structure can be sustained by catch and release of all bass and bluegill.

You are likely to be dissatisfied with low ecological efficiency of mediocre fish populations of PSD less than 10 of both bass and bluegill. But, such fishing ponds are ideal to introduce your children or grandchildren to fishing. These hungry fish are much easier to catch than fish in well balanced populations.

Some of my favorite fishing memories are from a 35 acre private fishing lake in Boone County. Missouri. It was opened to fishing with a twelve-inch minimum length limit to prevent initial overharvest of bass. After two seasons, it was obvious there was a surplus of eight to twelve inch bass in the fishing lake. The regulation was changed to protect bass twelve to fifteen inches long, the first ever application of a “slot limit” on bass. Gizzard shad were also stocked, to help forage fish production. After two years, the Wr of bass of all sizes was over l00. Over the next five years the angling PSD of bluegill ranges from 50-90 and bass PSD ranged from 20 to 60. The regulation was considered a success for the fishery.

But, for those few years with bass PSD of 10 and Wr near 90, this lake was unforgettable for my family. My daughters were about eight and ten years old at the time. They were more into “catching” than “fishing.” There was a hatch of black caddis flies (Trichoptera) and bass were behaving like trout. Any cast near a rise produced a strike. I didn’t catch any fish that day. Didn’t have time. Only had time to unhook and release what they caught. Those memories, too, are priceless.

Maybe we should have kept those fish?

POND BOSS Magazine is the world’s leading resource for fish, pond and fisheries management information including discussions on muddy water, raising trophy fish, fish feeding, building a pond, algae control and more. Check us out at www.pondboss.com or contact Bob Lusk, the Pond Boss himself, at 903-564-5372. His books, Basic Pond Management, Raising Trophy Bass and Perfect Pond, Want One, may be purchased by calling 800-687-6075 or ordering online at www.pondboss.com

We made it home safe from the 600 mile drive to Big Cedar Lodge for the Pond Boss convention this past week. Many new friends were made as well as building and improving business relationships. These folks are all about enjoying all aspects of the great outdoors.

Allen warren was on hand to talk about the growing concern for our kids, missing out on all that the outdoors have to offer. He is spearheading a national movement to get outdoor education to be offered to our kids at school. The important traditions of spending time outdoors, learning and applying the skills of woodsmanship,hunting,climbing,mountaineering,fishing and camping, are just some of the skills that are not getting passed down to the kids.

All the information is available at www.isupportoutdoored.com for everyone to get involved. Celebrities and folks from all over the nation are getting involved to help. Please look into this first of it’s kind movement to ensure our future generstions have the oppourtunity to enjoy all nature has to offer.

Brad Wiegmann was also on hand to cover the event. His unique style of writing comes from a strong love for all things fishy. Brad is a freelance outdoor writer from Sprindale, Arkansas, who adds his photography skills to his writing abilities. He also has been guiding professionally for years, adding to his experienced eye for a story when water is involved. Here is a link to his site and the story hot off press:

http://www.bradwiegmann.com/pond-fishing/pond-management/577-pond-boss-iv-conference-a-expo-2011-whats-it-all-about.html

The fishing is great on Tablerock and we were lucky enough to catch a few. The weather was pushing 80 degrees, a far cry from what we came home to. A fellow friend and crappie nut from www.crappie.com gave us some spots to fish and they were dead on. What a advantage to have friends with a common bond of the outdoors offering their help to make our trip the most enjoyable possible. 

We caught a number of smaller male bass, staging for the spawn as well as a bunch of crappie to pack on ice to enjoy with friends at home. New places and friends to return to the next time we head south into the great state of Missouri. Thanks to all.

The family at Pond Boss is truly a passionate group of folks who love to be outside, usually around water. Many of the attendees came from the south where heat is a constant issue raising fish and aquatic balance. I can’t imagine dealing with water temps over 90 degrees, when we come home to a 2″ snowfall. Spend some time looking through the pond boss site and you will find topics and answers to all water related things and beyond. Countless folks are always on hand to reply to a question or concern, often with humor but always with a sincere desire to help. www.pondboss.com

Fish need homes just like people do. Some can build their own fish habitat house and some hire a fish habitat builder .Here’s a little bit of background on how this idea to create artificial fish habitat has developed, as well as where we see it going in the future. Installing and creating additional fish structure has been going on for many years. We simply feel we have come up with a better way to save the fish and the environment.

Growing up in Northern Illinois, my dad started me fishing at a very young age. Although his father fished, he has never considered himself an avid fisherman. An Architect by trade, he was simply exposing his son to new things outdoors.

At age 7 Jacques’ Cousteau had my undivided attention saving the oceans and sea life, and there my passion lies, these 40+ years later.

Fast forward 20 years,  I’m president and owner of a General/Carpenter contracting business. Be your own boss they all say. Surely it would give me more time to fish right?

Housing in our area exploded, followed by steady commercial growth. We enjoyed what Dad and I agree, was some of the best 15+ years to be a builder. It was here in the trades, I worked with the materials that would come to be fishiding.com, Reclaimed Artificial fish habitat. Building houses for fish came next called artificial fish habitat.

As the recession took hold, our workload diminished. It was time to find another way to pay the bills. (and, did I mention still  fish around the world, bow hunt 90 days/season,Turke…)

As a builder, we had leftover vinyl material in every color, never enough for another job. Made us angry, taking up so much room in our expensive dumpsters. Then it hit me, this stuff would work great underwater and it’s keeping it out of the landfills. Algae will grow. Win-win right?

Next it was off to the professionals (and patent office), to see if it would be accepted into the industry as a safe product, and as widely used as we saw the potential. The wonderful news is the fish love it, with products now in 29 states and counting.

What started with the simplest idea and one fish crib model has turned the industry’s focus in the direction of reclaimed artificial fish habitat products, lasting for many years to come. Install fish habitat that doesn’t decay and break down, it only has to be installed once.

Trial and error, lots of siding, and more fishiding fish structure units in Wonder Lake. We continue to test and develop new textures, sizes and shapes of fish attractors for all types of needs. We film under water to see how the fish structure is being used, and what type fish habitat and size fish prefer different PVC habitat  layouts.

The biologists asked for something more dense, with fine strands to protect the smallest fry and larvae.

Something easy to transport and fit in the boat without the need of tools, weights or chains.

Products that don’t add to energy and pollution concerns.

Wide limbs to create maximum shade benefits.

These concerns have been addressed and resolved with utmost care and consideration.

This is only the beginning. This is Fishiding.

The market is vast, from saltwater to aquaculture, freshwat

er to aquariums and beyond. Fishiding.com will continue to reshape fish habitat, one bend at a time.

www.fishiding.com

Offering the most cost effective solution to artificial fish habitat. Helping save our waterways and fisheries, all the while being conscious of leaving no footprint from manufacturing. This is what we believe. This is for the fish.

Get involved, do your part in reducing our nation’s dependency on fossil fuels. Help America strengthen by buying and supporting products made here in the states.

Reclaimed fishiding artificial fish habitat is made in America with only American made materials. Support your local sportsman/women, for all God’s creatures in our woods and waters they work to protect.